Tag Archives: eBay

[heat] shields up!

So um why do my brakes feels squishy all of a sudden? Like… Horse and buggy-like brake performance that requires Flintstones effort..
Ever get that feeling?

Quickly check out your brake fluid and notice the levels in the master and secondary cylinders. Low!

So why? Visually inspected the brakes: good amount left. No brake fluid leaks. See something missing here?

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Huh! Wasn’t there suppose to be a heat shield here? Yes! Car came without the heat shields, and if Datsun designed them, it needs them, and now I know why. Brake fluid can break down at high heat (remember, we’re in a 280z haha).

Now I think a few things are happening here:
1) brake cylinder caps aren’t tight enough allowing the brake fluid to absorb moisture from the atmosphere, severely degrading it’s boiling temp.
2) engine bay is hot enough to heat up that brake fluid enough to evap.

Boiling temp of DOT3 brake fluid specs out to be around 400F (dry), and 284F (wet, meaning when it’s absorbed enough moisture). Huh, so 284F isn’t too far from 212F (boiling temp of water, for reference), and I know my 280z engine gets hotter than that.

So I knew I at least needed a heat shield, and order one from eBay ($35 + $10 ship). Ugh.. Wrong one. Do you know how hard it is to find a 280z brake cylinder heat shield?! So I picture match it with a ’79 280zx version.. And I thought they were the same…oops, nope..

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Let there be light!

Finally, 3 weeks later, headlights! No more slogging through the night w/ hazard lights on! No more hearing it from the wife! No more.. ok ok, what did i fix? I was able to install the new[er] 280z combo switch fairly swiftly (seeing as i’ve done it countless times before). This one, purchased from eBay, came in decent shape, and the cam switches that turn on/off the parking lights and headlights are solid. Solid. Turn on the headlights, though… nothing. Back to the voltmeter. Measured again between the terminals on the combo switch – 12.5v… but when i turn it on, it goes to zero volts. huh! a ground issue? I again make my way down the chain toward the fuse panel, then the other way toward the battery. ah ha! doh.. the fusible link looked good, but upon serious inspection (meaning trying to pull it off):

Daily Datsun - fusible link

wtf – seriously? i measured the voltage across it, and it was good! good i tell you! but probably because it was hanging by a thread, which will read voltage, but not have the capacity to hold upwards of 50A of headlight power. Just for reference, the headlights fusible link is on the bottom left (when looking into the engine bay from the passenger side).

Daily Datsun - fusible link

Until my replacement 280z fusible links can come in from Motorsport Auto’s (MSA) Z store, I just trimmed, and reattached the link – and…viola!

Daily Datsun - headlights on

and wouldn’t you know.. highs AND low beams work! huzzah!   And that’s not all. Interestingly enough there’s a bit of discrepancy in the 280z’s fusible link layout! You’ll notice on MSA’s fusible link product page, they note the use of the black fusible link (80A) for the headlights, and on AtlanticZ.ca’s site, they note that a red/brown fusible link (50A) should be used; with black being used for the alternator / ignition. See below:

MSA’s diagram:

Motorsport Auto's Z fusible link diagram

Atlantic Z’s diagram:

Atlantic Z's fusible link layout for 1977 280z

So who’s right? It would make sense that if any circuit out of the four has to have the highest rated fuse, it would be the alternator and ignition circuit. Datsun Field Service Manual (FSM) says…. huh. it doesn’t. yeah, pg BE-6 doesn’t know which one goes where. A few google searches later, you’ll notice that most images will show that Atlantic Z has it correct, the black fusible link is for the Alternator / Ignition Relay. This additional wiring diagram from CarPartsManual.com shows it clearly (even though for a ’74-’76).

Datsun-Z-engine-bay-wiring-diagram

Other supporting images show the same layout (not in favor of MSA’s diagram)…

I really like ZCurves’ solution for using the blade styled (read: more accessible / cost effective) fuses.

Yet another: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/correct_fusible_links3.jpg

I guess we’ll be contacting MSA to find out what the real setup should be!

ok. time to move on to real stuff: suspension!  


eBay: Datsun 280z combo switch

Just arrived!

A bit grimy, but looks like everything is in working condition: parking / headlight switch actuates solidly, wiper switch rocks, and washer fluid button depresses. Soldering looks to be in good shape as well.

I may have sometime tomorrow after to work to install this puppy and know get a clearer idea of what I’m dealing with.

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Review: KDC KT-1370 Datsun Side view mirrors

My side view mirrors were in sad shape: loosing its ability to hold position, even after being tightened, so I ventured to eBay for some new ones.

One thing I wanted to keep in mind was using any existing holes in the 280z from the previous side view mirrors.

I eventually narrowed it down to a set dubbed “DOOR MIRRORS DATSUN FAIRLADY” 280z side-view mirrors $32/pair ($19.50 shipping) from eBay seller coniglio1975.

PRODUCT INFO
KDC KT-1370 “RearView MIRROR”
Made in Taiwan

KDS KT-1370 Side View Mirror KDS KT-1370 Side View Mirror

REVIEW
Highlights –
– As the description states, “Raw material = plastic”. (honestly, i can’t remember if that was there previous to purchasing it. I would have really opt’d for metal).
+ Closely fits the original side view mirrors (at least the ones I have)
– Plastic part lines severely apparent
+ Very easy to install
+ Single screw mirror tightening

INSTALL
All you’ll need is a screw driver, and perhaps a dremel / hacksaw to adjust the length of the main screw (see below)

The old mirror…

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Quick inspection shows an “Altezza” sticker… nothing to do with Toyota tuning…

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The old side view mirror bracket.

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Note the difference in length of the mounting pads. Original is on top.

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Note the difference in design. There’s a pitch in the old one (right), while the KDS version is flat. This shouldn’t really matter as the mirror itself is adjustable in all directions.

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You’ll see a few things in this picture: 1) The supplied screw with the KDS KT-1370 kit is a bit too long, and will end up digging into the door (where there is no hole). 2) If you look close enough, you’ll see that I must have put the side view mirrors on too early after painting… there are spots where the paint has been pushed / rippled. Minor issue, however because the new mounting pad is slightly smaller, it will reveal more.

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The Dremel tool made quick work of the main screw, shortening it to proper length as not to dig into the door (~1, 11/16″ including head).

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Although the housing and bezel of the old side view mirror is larger, the mirror itself is the same size.

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Huh? The driver side door has two additional holes more than the passenger side?! aahh was this a 240z door? My first is that this maybe left over design from the 240z’s classic single side view mirror…or the door was replaced (not likely as the original paint was spot on). Eh, whatevs – let’s install this thing.

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While I’m not fond of the shiny black base, it’s not completely hideous either. I do mind more that the mirror’s housing is a dull black, while the base is a shiny black (i mean, come on!). If i have time, i may spray paint them the same black I’ve been using on the rest of the black parts on the car (matte black). Overall, not a bad purchase – you always get what you pay for. We’ll see how these hold up over the course of the year.


The $45K Godzilla question…

What would you pay for a clean, done-up-right S30 (240z, 260z, 280z) Datsun Z? $5,000? $10,000?

I’ve seen some great gems, stock styling, nice drivers for about $5k on Craigslist.
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/cto/2843108575.html

 

For $10k, you get into some really nice, well kept examples:

260Z from Specialy Sales… this has been on the market for almost a year now…
or.. how about $45,000?! If you look close, you’ll notice all the differences comparing the previous examples: RB26 turbo’d engine, Watanabe ‘R-type’ wheels, ZG flares, custom gauges… but for $45k? hmmm…

 


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